And if we force M66EN to high ?

All I can do (without the adapter in hands) is try to guess where D10 and C2 could be on the backside of the adapter:



BLUE DOTS=GND

According to my guessing, D10 and C2 aren't grounded by resistors.

D10 for example seems to be grounded directly

Note the cursive, I can't be sure of this without the adaptor in hands, since I can't see tracks on the frontside of the adapter; the best way to find out what we need is reverse-engineering the adapter:D

Yes i agreed with you.
Reverse engineering =unsolder the bridge...this is the best way.

Asumming that you are right about the position of the C2 and d10..should we try to cut the connection to the ground and see the results ( see the yellow marks )?
If yes, how do you suggest to do this ?
What kind of tools should be used to interupt the circuit layer ?



L.E: I check with the multimeter, and after scratching a little bit these areas to get to the cooper, i found out that these points are connected to ground.

QuoteL.E: I check with the multimeter, and after scratching a little bit these areas to get to the cooper, i found out that these points are connected to ground.

Great news!

So there are good chances I was right. Well, If I was you, I would try first to cut the track between the point I was supposed to be D10 and the respective GND and than try the adapter. A cutter could do the job. In the case you will want to restore the adapter to original conditions, should be possible rejoint the track with a bit patience.

Note that this is only what I would do if I had my own adapter; cannot guarantee that will works @66MHz or even that the adapter will still work after the mod, since we should study also the tracks on the frontside of the adapter first to say what must be done;). I cannot take any responsibility.

Yes . I understand you.
I do not know how to cut it...i know the risk is there to destroy the adapter...especialy when you are not skilled in such things.

Can you give me more details about the operation ?

QuoteOriginally posted by m14radu

Yes . I understand you.
I do not know how to cut it...i know the risk is there to destroy the adapter...especialy when you are not skilled in such things.

Can you give me more details about the operation ?

If you are planning to do this mod, I suggest you a simple cutter. Cut the track in two points, then remove the portion (about 1mm) cutted as follows:

O===|=|===O

If the mod had success, I would solder a micro-switch between D10 and GND, in order to switch on or off the mod in anytime[8D]

ok,  i cut the track between the points that was supposed to be D10.
test are running now.

Bad News.
Unfortunately, the card runs as before, @33Mhz.
no changes.

I also tried with the Pin49b on the voodoo card masked and not masked.
No difference.

Oh, very bad[V]

At this point I don't know how much can help cut C2 track too.

Are you able to repair the track if needed?

yes, i think i manage to repair the track.
the adapter is still working in the actual status, is not dead

I will take next week a better look on the track at my workplace, with a special magnifyer.

I'll keep you informed about the progress.

Thanks to everybody for the great support !

And so it's looking now.
( Fotos is done with my smartphone )

As Pci-E 1.0 is limited to 250 Gb/sec, does any guy would test carrefully PLX PEX8112 on Pci-Express 2.0 mainboard to verify if V5500 @66mhz -> 266 Gb/s would run on Pci-Express 2.0 ?

Supermicro adaptor (66 mhz) is very good.

Did somebody already try the new SFFT 1.7 with the PCIe adapter ?
Please poste some results guys !

Mine is not @home yet....

Hello mradu14, Sfft 1.7 works just great on Win7 32 with V5500 Pci bridged with PLX pex8112 !
Looks like a major release !